Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan

Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life

William Finnegan

1167 pages first pub 2015 (editions)

nonfiction memoir travel adventurous informative reflective slow-paced
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**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** "Reading this guy on the subject of waves and water is like reading Hemingway on bullfighting; William Burroughs on controlled substances; Updike on adultery. . . . a coming-of-age story, see...

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